Home & Mortgage

Navigate the largest financial decision most people ever make.

A mortgage isn't just a loan — it's a 30-year bet on your financial future. The difference between a well-structured mortgage and a poorly timed one can easily exceed $100,000 in lifetime costs. These tools help you run the numbers before you sign anything.

$2,100
Median U.S. monthly mortgage payment
28%
Max front-end DTI lenders typically allow
$360K
Median U.S. home sale price

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Calculator

Home Affordability Calculator

Go beyond the pre-approval number. Factor in property taxes, insurance, HOA, maintenance, and your actual lifestyle spending to find a home price that keeps you comfortable — not just qualified.

Buying a Home

Managing Your Mortgage

Home Equity

Frequently Asked Questions

How much house can I realistically afford?

The standard guideline is to keep total housing costs — principal, interest, property taxes, and insurance (PITI) — below 28% of gross monthly income (the "front-end" debt-to-income ratio). Lenders also evaluate your total DTI, which includes all monthly debt payments, and typically require it stays below 43% for conventional loans. But these are qualification ceilings, not personal targets. A smarter approach factors in HOA fees, ongoing maintenance (budget 1–2% of home value annually), and how the payment fits your actual lifestyle spending — not just what a lender will approve. Our Home Affordability Calculator models all of these variables together.

When does refinancing a mortgage actually make financial sense?

Refinancing makes sense when the total interest savings over your remaining ownership period exceed the closing costs. Calculate your break-even point: divide total closing costs by your monthly payment reduction. If break-even is 26 months and you plan to stay 7 more years, refinancing likely wins. The old rule of thumb — "refinance if you can drop your rate by 1%" — is too simplistic. The actual math depends on your loan balance, remaining term, and closing costs, which typically run 2–5% of the loan amount. Cash-out refinances require separate analysis, since you're increasing your principal balance and extending your payoff horizon.

What's actually included in mortgage closing costs?

Closing costs typically run 2–5% of the loan amount and fall into three buckets. Lender fees include origination charges and underwriting fees — some are negotiable. Third-party fees cover the appraisal, title insurance, title search, and potentially attorney costs — less negotiable, but you can shop for title services. Prepaid items include the first year of homeowners insurance, property tax escrow deposits, and prepaid mortgage interest. Finally, government charges cover recording fees and transfer taxes, which are fixed. Lenders are required to provide a Loan Estimate within three business days of application — use it to compare offers line by line.

Is it better to put 20% down or invest the difference?

Putting less than 20% down means paying PMI — typically 0.5–1.5% of the loan balance annually — which is a direct cost of leverage. Whether investing the excess down payment outperforms that cost depends on your mortgage rate and expected investment returns. In a 7% mortgage rate environment, paying down the mortgage represents a guaranteed 7% return — hard to beat on a risk-adjusted basis. In a low-rate environment (3–4%), the math often favored investing. There's no universal answer: it hinges on your specific rate, risk tolerance, and whether you'd actually invest the difference rather than spend it.

What's the difference between a fixed-rate and adjustable-rate mortgage?

A fixed-rate mortgage locks your interest rate for the entire loan term — your principal and interest payment never changes regardless of what happens to broader interest rates. An ARM (adjustable-rate mortgage) offers a lower introductory rate for a set period — commonly 5, 7, or 10 years — then adjusts annually based on a market index (usually SOFR) plus a lender margin. ARMs make most sense when you're confident you'll sell or refinance before the first adjustment, or when the initial rate discount is substantial enough to justify the uncertainty. The risk is that rates can rise significantly after the fixed period ends.

All calculators and content on FinanceWonk are for educational purposes only and do not constitute financial, tax, or legal advice. Always consult a qualified professional before making significant financial decisions. Full disclaimer