Taxes

Tax-Deferred vs. Taxable: Visualizing the Long-Term Impact

Tax drag quietly erodes taxable account returns every year. Learn the math of tax-deferred compounding, asset location strategy, and when taxable accounts can actually win.

Last Updated: Feb 2025

Tax drag is the cumulative cost of paying taxes on investment gains each year in a taxable account, reducing the amount available to compound. Tax-deferred compounding allows 100% of your gains to remain invested and grow until withdrawal, maximizing the power of compound growth.

Key Takeaways

  1. 1

    Tax drag compounds against you every year. Annual taxes on dividends, interest, and realized gains remove money that would otherwise keep growing. Over decades, this invisible leak can cost you hundreds of thousands of dollars.

  2. 2

    Tax-deferred accounts let 100% of gains compound. In a 401(k), IRA, or similar account, your full returns stay invested year after year. You pay taxes eventually, but decades of uninterrupted growth typically outweigh the deferred tax bill.

  3. 3

    Asset location matters as much as asset allocation. Where you hold each investment—taxable vs. tax-deferred—can significantly impact your after-tax returns. High-yield bonds and REITs belong in tax-deferred accounts; low-turnover index funds can thrive in taxable ones.

  4. 4

    Taxable accounts have their own advantages. Lower long-term capital gains rates, step-up in basis at death, tax-loss harvesting, and no required minimum distributions mean taxable accounts aren’t always worse—they’re just different tools.

$761,226

$100K grows to (tax-deferred, 30 yrs)

$269,571

Lost to tax drag at 22% bracket

1.54%

Annual return reduction from 22% drag

7 years

Extra years to reach same goal (taxable)

What Is It — How Tax Drag Erodes Returns Over Time

Imagine two identical buckets collecting rainwater. One has a small hole near the bottom—barely noticeable, just a slow drip. The other is sealed tight. After a single rainstorm, you’d hardly see the difference. But leave them out for years, and the leaky bucket will hold far less water—not just because of what dripped out, but because less water was available to catch the next rainfall. Tax drag works the same way: small annual leaks that compound into a massive difference over time.

What Tax Drag Actually Costs You

Tax drag isn’t a line item on your statement. It’s the silent erosion of returns that happens when you pay taxes on investment income each year. In a taxable brokerage account, you owe taxes annually on dividends, interest, and any capital gains from selling investments. That money leaves your account and can’t compound anymore.

The math is relentless. If your investments earn 7% but you pay taxes on 2% of that each year (from dividends and distributions), your effective return drops to around 5.5%. That 1.5% difference might sound small, but over 30 years, it means the difference between $761,000 and $500,000 on a $100,000 investment. You didn’t make bad investments or panic-sell at the wrong time—you just paid taxes along the way.

Taxable Account

You invest $100,000 in a fund yielding 7% annually. Each year, roughly 2% is distributed as taxable dividends, and you owe taxes on any gains when you rebalance.

After 30 years (22% bracket)

$491,655

Taxes paid annually, reducing compounding base

Tax-Deferred Account

You invest $100,000 in the same fund inside a traditional IRA or 401(k). All dividends reinvest without triggering taxes. Rebalancing creates no tax event.

After 30 years (same 7% return)

$761,226

Full amount compounds until withdrawal

How Tax-Deferred Compounding Works

In a tax-deferred account like a traditional 401(k) or IRA, you don’t pay taxes on dividends, interest, or capital gains while the money stays in the account. Every dollar your investments earn remains invested, growing and generating its own returns. You only pay taxes when you withdraw the money, typically in retirement.

This creates a powerful dynamic: you’re essentially getting an interest-free loan from the government. The money you would have paid in taxes each year instead keeps working for you. Over 30 years, that “loan” can grow into tens or hundreds of thousands of extra dollars—far more than the eventual tax bill.

The Tax-Deferral Advantage in Plain Terms

Think of it this way: Would you rather pay $1,000 in taxes today, or pay $1,000 in taxes 30 years from now? Even without any growth, a dollar today is worth more than a dollar in the future due to inflation. But with growth, the advantage is even larger—that $1,000 kept invested at 7% becomes $7,612 before you owe anything.

Not All Investments Create Equal Tax Drag

Tax drag varies dramatically by investment type. A bond fund paying 5% interest creates 5% of tax drag every year—brutal. A total stock market index fund might distribute only 1-2% in dividends, with most gains unrealized until you sell. A tax-managed fund can be even more efficient, using strategies to minimize taxable distributions.

This is why asset location—deciding which investments go in which account types—matters so much. The wrong placement can cost you significantly more in taxes than necessary, even with the same overall portfolio.

The REITs and Bonds Warning

Real estate investment trusts (REITs) and bonds are particularly tax-inefficient. REITs must distribute 90% of taxable income as dividends, taxed as ordinary income. Bond interest is also taxed as ordinary income—not at the lower qualified dividend rate. Holding these in a taxable account creates maximum tax drag. If possible, shelter them in tax-deferred accounts.

How It Works — Tax-Deferred Compounding vs. Annual Tax Drag

Understanding the mathematics of tax drag reveals why small annual percentages create such large long-term differences. The key insight: tax drag doesn’t just reduce your returns—it reduces the base that compounds, and that effect multiplies over time.

The Tax Drag Formula

After-Tax Return = Pre-Tax Return × (1 − Tax Rate on Distributions)

For a 7% return with 22% taxes on all distributions: 7% × (1 − 0.22) = 5.46% effective return

This simplified formula assumes all gains are taxed annually. In practice, unrealized capital gains defer taxes, so actual tax drag depends on your investment’s distribution rate.

Tax Drag at Different Tax Brackets

Your marginal tax bracket determines how much each dollar of investment income costs you. The table below shows how a $100,000 investment grows over 30 years at 7% returns, comparing tax-deferred growth ($761,226) against taxable accounts at different tax rates. We assume all returns are taxed annually for illustration—your actual results depend on how much of your returns come from taxable distributions versus unrealized gains.

Tax BracketEffective ReturnTaxable BalanceLost to Tax Drag
15% (Single: $47K–$100K)5.95%$567,451$193,775
22% (Single: $100K–$191K)5.46%$491,655$269,571
24% (Single: $191K–$244K)5.32%$467,071$294,155
32% (Single: $244K–$609K)4.76%$404,387$356,839

*Assumes $100,000 initial investment, 7% annual return, 30-year period, and all returns taxed annually at the stated rate. Tax-deferred comparison balance: $761,226.

Practical Takeaway

At a 22% tax bracket, tax drag costs you $269,571 over 30 years on a $100,000 investment—more than 2.5 times your original investment. At higher brackets, the damage is even worse. This is why maximizing tax-advantaged accounts should be a priority for most investors.

A Tale of Two Investors: Same Portfolio, Different Placement

Asset location—where you hold each investment—can be just as important as what you invest in. Meet Taylor and Morgan, both with $200,000 split evenly between stocks and bonds, earning identical returns. The only difference is where they hold each asset.

Taylor: Tax-Inefficient Placement

  • Taxable account: $100K in bonds (5% yield, taxed as ordinary income)
  • 401(k): $100K in stock index fund (2% dividend yield)
  • • Tax bracket: 22%
  • • Pays ~$1,100/year in taxes on bond interest

After 30 years (after-tax):

$598,420

Morgan: Tax-Efficient Placement

  • Taxable account: $100K in stock index fund (2% dividend yield, qualified)
  • 401(k): $100K in bonds (5% yield, sheltered)
  • • Tax bracket: 22%
  • • Pays ~$300/year in taxes on qualified dividends (15% rate)

After 30 years (after-tax):

$681,750

Same investments, same returns, same contribution amounts—but Morgan ends up with over $83,000 more simply by putting the right assets in the right accounts. The bonds, which would have created 5% of annual tax drag, are sheltered in the 401(k). The stock index fund, which generates mostly unrealized gains and qualified dividends (taxed at just 15%), sits comfortably in the taxable account.

The Asset Location Hierarchy

Not all investments create equal tax drag. Use this hierarchy to prioritize what goes where:

Best in Tax-Deferred (401k, Trad IRA)

Taxable bonds, bond funds, REITs, high-turnover active funds, and anything generating ordinary income. These create maximum tax drag in taxable accounts.

Best in Roth Accounts

Assets with highest expected growth (small-cap, emerging markets, growth stocks). All gains escape taxation forever. Put your home runs here.

Fine in Taxable Accounts

Total market index funds, tax-managed funds, municipal bonds, individual stocks held long-term. Low distributions and favorable long-term capital gains rates minimize drag.

Flexible Placement

International stocks (for foreign tax credit in taxable), I Bonds (already tax-deferred), and short-term holdings. Consider your specific situation.

The Rule of Thumb

Place your most tax-inefficient investments (bonds, REITs, active funds) in tax-deferred accounts first. Fill Roth accounts with your highest-growth expectations. Let tax-efficient investments (index funds, individual stocks) sit in taxable accounts. When in doubt, ask: “How much of this investment’s return will be taxed annually?”

What It Means for You — Asset Location Strategy

You control more than you might think. Tax drag isn’t fate—it’s a consequence of decisions about where you invest, what you invest in, and how you manage your accounts. Here’s how to minimize the leak.

The Four Levers You Control

1. Maximize Tax-Advantaged Space

Contribute enough to your 401(k) to get the full employer match, then max out your IRA, then return to max your 401(k). Every dollar in these accounts avoids annual tax drag.

2. Place High-Yield Assets in Tax-Deferred

Bonds, REITs, and high-dividend stocks belong in your 401(k) or traditional IRA. Their income would be taxed as ordinary income anyway—shelter it until withdrawal.

3. Use Tax-Loss Harvesting in Taxable

When investments decline, sell them to realize losses that offset gains or up to $3,000 of ordinary income. Immediately reinvest in a similar (not identical) fund to stay invested.

4. Reserve Roth for Highest Growth

Roth gains are never taxed. Put assets with the highest expected long-term growth here—small-cap funds, emerging markets, or individual stocks you believe in strongly.

Reality Check: When Taxable Accounts Win

Tax-deferred accounts aren’t always superior. There are legitimate reasons to hold investments in taxable accounts beyond just overflow:

The Taxable Account Advantages

  • Lower long-term capital gains rates: If you hold for over a year, gains are taxed at 0%, 15%, or 20%—not your ordinary income rate. For someone in the 32% bracket, this is a significant advantage.
  • Step-up in basis at death: If you die holding appreciated assets in a taxable account, your heirs receive them with a “stepped-up” cost basis—erasing all capital gains taxes. In a traditional IRA or 401(k), they’d owe ordinary income taxes on every dollar withdrawn.
  • Tax-loss harvesting: You can strategically realize losses to offset gains, reducing your tax bill. This is impossible in tax-advantaged accounts.
  • No required minimum distributions: Traditional 401(k)s and IRAs force withdrawals starting at age 73, potentially pushing you into a higher bracket. Taxable accounts have no such requirement.
  • No early withdrawal penalties: Need the money before 59½? Taxable accounts let you access it freely (though you’ll owe capital gains on any appreciation).

The optimal strategy for most people is to maximize tax-advantaged space first, then invest in taxable accounts with tax-efficient funds. But if you expect to be in a higher tax bracket in retirement (rare but possible), or if you’re building wealth you intend to leave to heirs, taxable accounts deserve more consideration.

What If You’re Starting Late?

If you’ve been investing in taxable accounts for years without considering asset location, don’t panic. Moving assets between account types isn’t always practical—selling in a taxable account triggers capital gains taxes, and you can’t simply transfer appreciated stock into an IRA.

Instead, optimize going forward. Direct new contributions strategically: bonds and REITs into tax-advantaged accounts, index funds and individual stocks into taxable. Over time, your portfolio will naturally shift toward better tax efficiency. If you have significant losses in your taxable account, consider harvesting them before rebalancing—the realized losses can offset gains for years.

Pro Tip: The Roth Conversion Opportunity

If you have a year with unusually low income (career transition, sabbatical, early retirement before Social Security), consider converting some traditional IRA or 401(k) money to Roth. You’ll pay ordinary income taxes at today’s lower rate, but all future growth becomes tax-free forever. This is especially powerful if you expect higher tax rates in the future—either personally or due to potential tax law changes.

The Withdrawal Tax Rate Question

Tax-deferred compounding eventually ends when you withdraw. If your tax rate in retirement is the same as it is now, you’ll still come out ahead due to decades of uninterrupted compounding. If your tax rate is lower in retirement (common for most people), the advantage is even larger. Only if your tax rate is significantly higher in retirement would Roth accounts have been a better choice—and even then, the math is closer than most people assume.

The optimal approach for most people: use traditional (tax-deferred) accounts while in your peak earning years, and consider Roth contributions or conversions when your income is lower. This gives you “tax diversification”—flexibility to withdraw from different account types based on your tax situation each year in retirement.

The Bottom Line

Tax drag is one of the largest but least visible costs for investors. For a $100,000 portfolio over 30 years, poor tax management can cost you $200,000 or more. Maximize your tax-advantaged contributions, place your most tax-inefficient assets in tax-deferred accounts, and use taxable accounts strategically for tax-efficient investments and tax-loss harvesting. Small decisions made consistently will compound just as powerfully as your investments themselves.

Try It Out — Visualize the Long-Term Difference

Ready to see how tax drag affects your specific situation? The calculator below lets you compare tax-deferred growth against taxable accounts, accounting for your tax bracket, expected returns, and time horizon. Enter your numbers to see the true cost of annual tax drag—and the potential benefit of optimizing your asset location.

Quick Start Calculator

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Tax-Deferred Advantage

+$81,995

over a taxable account after 25 years

Tax-Deferred (after tax)

$367,138

Taxable Account

$285,143

Upfront Tax Savings

$39,000

Account Growth Over Time

Compares tax-deferred (after estimated withdrawal tax) vs. taxable account value.

What to Look For in the Results

Tax-Deferred Ending Balance

This is your projected balance if all investments grew in a 401(k) or traditional IRA, with no taxes paid until withdrawal.

Taxable Ending Balance

Your projected balance after accounting for annual tax drag on dividends, interest, and realized gains in a brokerage account.

Dollar Difference

The raw cost of tax drag—how much less you accumulate by paying taxes annually instead of deferring them.

Effective After-Tax Return

Your true rate of return after taxes erode each year’s gains. Compare this to your pre-tax return to see the real impact of your tax bracket.

Disclaimer: This calculator provides estimates based on the assumptions you enter. Actual results will vary based on market performance, changes in tax law, your specific tax situation, and other factors. The calculator does not account for state taxes, the net investment income tax, or the specific tax treatment of different investment types. It assumes a simplified model where a portion of returns are taxed annually. Consult a qualified tax professional or financial advisor for personalized advice.

Run the Full Analysis

The interactive calculator above is a quick-start version. The full tool offers more inputs, detailed breakdowns, data tables, and CSV export.

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This content is for educational and informational purposes only and does not constitute financial, tax, or legal advice. Consult a qualified professional for advice tailored to your situation.